Capsule

When Gravity Fails F/W 2011

January 24, 2011 BY CAPSULESNEWS

To say that When Gravity Fails and designer Sruli Recht are pushing the boundaries of menswear would be an understatement. Just take one look at F/W 2011 and you'll agree. The two show pieces seen below, "Icarus, post crash" and "Born out of this", are more than just clothing. This is a statement - a serious work of art, even. Check out what went into the process of creating these two pieces...

"'Icarus, post crash' - 21 blackbirds on a hunted wild reindeer base. After meeting a group of hunters, hunting birds and beasts, we struck up a deal: all the birds they could bring me, in exchange for a pound of breath. And birds they brought, bags and bags of them. Hands soaked in feathers and flesh, they were sorted through, sent on ice to my tanner (a craftsman so brilliant I heard he once tanned air). What returned to our studio was not a pile of feathers and feet but rather the full-bodied, beaked husks of those once soft flying blackbirds. And out of their box they were pulled, put onto the stand, and the garment quite literally designed itself. All we had to do was sew it together... by hand and heart, on a reindeer base, body to body to back to wing, to have our Icarus, post crash, sombre and in between."

"'Born out of this" - 27 still born lambs, 3 regular lambs, military dead-stock lining. And it was said, during a conversation in the cold, cavernous walls of the tannery, chromium sulphate hanging low in the air, and not a piece of natural light leaking in, what is that heap over there? Looking vaguely at the iridescent white pile to his left, said he That...? They were not meant to be. And so it was agreed, I would take those lost souls, and from him to me they came.

Shaken, preferred, and pieced together, these almost once vessels, together now one, and draped as a single square, and a sleeve, and a pleated set/raglan hybrid, with darted shaping. A coat to end all, and begin again. "