Jun 29 2013
Day of 3 of Paris Fashion Week had several collections that the industry could not wait to see. Trendsetting brands like Givenchy and KRISVANASSCHE, and artistic brands like Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe had stellar collections that will flip menswear on its head next year when it releases. The show everybody has been waiting for fromJohn Galliano, post his apology on Charlie Rose, was a highlight of day 3 amongst other standout collections.
Kris Van Assche is pushing boundaries with his tailored sportswear collection. He continues to blend styles to create hybrid sportswear pieces. For FW13, he mixed collared shirts with hooded sweaters, and this time around he blends trench coats and pea coats with anoraks and shirts with windbreakers.
This year’s Met Ball punk inspired exhibit came back to life at Rei Kawakubo’s punk-inspired collection. Kawakubo is never one to hold back or follow trends with Comme des Garcons. In this collection, she brightened her dark collection with floral patterns on trousers and jackets and with clashing plaid patterned ensembles.
The highly anticipated Givenchy show put out 58 looks that included three female models. Riccardo Tisci is still fine-tuning and perfecting his aesthetic and this collection is a showing of steps in the right direction. The quintessential Tisci look is still fresh. He moved away from religious imagery for sport influences and 90s streetwear. Manipulation of tape decks was the theme of the “futuristic” collection that looked more like a homage to early technological advancements.
We were anxious to see the John Galliano SS14 collection after he broke his silence this month expressing deep regret on the Charlie Rose show. The Bill Gaytten designed, 90s streetwear inspired collection was very colorful, on trend, and fully functional with pieces that showed much movement heading down the runway. This solid collection looks like just what the fashion house needs for a comeback.
If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to live in a painting, Berluti’s SS14 collection can give you a pretty good idea. Designer, Alessandro Sartori looked to impressionist paintings for this well-tailored, sharp, and very light weight 1930s inspired collection that was presented at Hôtel de Sully’s secret garden. Sartori aimed to reduce the weight of the summer suit with cropped trousers and blazers with soft shoulders and raglan seams.
You want to know how workwear continues to stay so fresh and exciting? Just ask Junya Watanabe who looked to hikers for his SS14 collection. The collection was rugged and outdoorsy and contained waxed cotton, canvas, and sailcloth bags made from bag maker, Seil Marschall. The fisherman jackets that hit the runway worn inside out gave us a few style ideas too.
Antwerp Six member, Ann Demeulemeester took her SS14 collection to the 19th century. High-collared shirts and cutaway coats were prevalent, but were much less formal and much more modern in this layered collection.
Boris Bidjan Saberi unveiled his SS14 collection in an untraditional fashion. The nautical-inspired collection hit the Internet on his web site that launched recently. Instead of studying Breton stripes and fisherman styling for the collection, Bidjan Saberi looked to ships and fishing nets and integrated it into his designs.
Fashion house, Maison Martin Margiela went in the opposite direction of their FW13 collection with a stripped down SS14 collection. Looks were very clean and sharp in black, charcoal, and white before a blast of vibrant blues brought the show to a close.
If you haven’t noticed, jerseys found a comfortable place on the streets of fashion. Tisci, Slimane, and Pyrex “jersey” inspired sportswear is still heavily photographed piece on street style blogs and on Instagram feeds. Jerseys aren’t your thing you say? Well Juun.J’s SS14 collection will have singing a different tune. Oversized football jerseys opened the show for a chic, slightly feminine menswear collection that ended with printed sweatshirts. A very trend heavy collection.
Just when we thought Paris Fashion Week couldn’t get any more amazing, Friday’s shows left us more excited for SS14 than the day prior. For the rest of the week, we’ll keep our mouths shut and just watch. We still can’t pick favorites yet, but maybe you have? Tweet at us @wearethemarket with your favorite collection from the week thus far.