Jun 28 2013
What did you think of day 1 of Paris Fashion Week? We’re still drooling over Raf Simons SS14 collection, but we can’t get too hung up on it. There are much more shows and much more collections to see, so the day 1 collections will have to wait. In fact, we almost forgot about them thanks to the amazing collections from day 2.
Here’s our recap from day 2 of Paris Fashion Week.
Phillip Lim said “surf’s up” with his SS14 collection. The designer went for a more casual, laid-back direction with oversized jackets and t-shirts meant for a lazy day on the beach or at the beach house. The surfer’s location is left up to us to guess, but a kimono-inspired shirt jacket from the collection should narrow it down.
Rock ‘n’ roll is deeply rooted in Olivier Rousteing’s designs for Balmain. The young designer pulled together a darker collection than most SS14 collections seen this far. Leather jackets and overalls met cashmere tweed and other superfine fabrics. Rugged met refined in this collection summarized as “Serge Gainsbourg meets boy dancer”.
Yusuke Takahashi went print heavy for his debut collection for Issey Miyake. Indian batik prints and large box patterns were a nice touch for this chaotic, yet focused collection.
Has Rick Owens come out about his love for basketball? Parts of his SS14 collection are very athletic, taking cues from the baggy basketball uniforms from the NBA at the turn of the century. Owens’ very popular basketball sneakers now have a uniform to go with it. Who will be the first to wear some of this collection in a 5-on-5 pickup game?
All eyes turned to Serre du Parc André Citroën at 2:30pm for Louis Vuitton’s SS14 show. Kim Jones took the audience on a road trip through America. Luxury was not sacrificed for this collection that had varsity jackets in kimono silk and blousons in crocodile skin. Also, all of the bomber jackets that hit the runway at this show are reversible. Jones loves to travel so he knows the good that can come from having two jackets in one when you’re living out of a suitcase.
Mr. Yamamoto may have expressed his qualms about the fashion industry, but that doesn’t mean he’s ready to throw in the towel. The show was very peaceful, zen like, as if Yohji has come to terms with his feelings about the industry. The collection is very layered, included overalls and military shirt jackets, and was very close to Japanese tradition.
Floral is commonplace for Spring/Summer collections, but you can thank Dries Van Noten’s green thumb, and not trends, as his reasoning behind his use of floral patterns. Van Noten looked to the archives of the Les Arts Décoratifs museum, where he will be the subject of an exhibition, for floral prints to sit on easy, comfortable fluid clothing.
PFW is rolling, and designers have not pulled any punches for SS14. Florals have been reinterpreted, Japanese fabrics and cuts have been given a modern twist, and every collection exceeded expectations. Can we fast forward to 2014 please? We can’t decide on a favorite collection just yet, not even for day 2. Have you found your favorite yet? Shoot us a tweet @wearethemarket with your favorite collection from day 2 and/or day 1.
(All photos via WWD)