Jun 24 2013
Menswear hasn’t checked out of their hotel rooms just yet. Following Pitti Uomo is Milan Fashion Week that has an assortment of covetable, eye-catching, trendsetting brands. All eyes are on Milan for the next few days just as it was this past weekend. We’ve rounded up London and Pitti, and now here’s our recap for this weekend’s shows at Milan Fashion Week.
(All photos via WWD)
Corneliani opened Milan Fashion Week last Saturday with a collection that infused Italian tailoring with Chinese clothing. Designer, Sergio Corneliani imagined a man traveling to “The Far East”, dressed for the warm climate in linen trousers and loosely woven sweaters, and is exploring Chinese fashion with Mao-collared jackets. The jackets were the key pieces for Corneliani’s SS14 collection. They were designed traditionally with a button or zipper fasten and modernly with a side zipper and slight shawl. The dusty brown and cream color story, which most commonly represents Italy, met a second color story of a rich blue hue representative of China and Hong Kong.
Antonio Azzuolo garnered inspiration from his neighborhood, the Lower East Side in Manhattan, for his debut collection as creative director for Giuliano Fujiwara. Stripes were prevalent in this quirky collection that took geek chic to another level. Cropped trousers, colorful unconventional patterns, and adventurous designs like the two button, shoulder stitched blazer captures the essence of a New Yorker with a devil may care attitude towards dressing up.
Stefano Pilati makes his return to fashion with his debut collection for Ermenegildo Zegna. He found a new home with this fashion house after his departure from Saint Laurent, then known as Yves Saint Laurent. Pilati continues his fashion story with a gentlemanly, tailoring-centric collection that fits Zegna’s brand identity and reflects Pilati’s personal style. The collection has an assortment of earth tones, darker blue hues, and Bordeaux for a rather muted spring/summer collection.
Prada alumnus, Andrea Pompilio showed his collection at Giorgio Armani’s theater on via Bergognone. Memorable prints and patterns are commonplace in Pompilio’s collections, and this season the standout was black stripes on a rust color palette. The color and pattern combo resembled tiger stripes on a suit, which was the opening look of the show as well as on a t-shirt, shorts, trousers and two coats. Pompilio also played with paisley patterns and interesting geometric designs, a nice touch for a solid collection from one of Milan’s favored rising stars.
Costume National designer, Ennio Capasa, continues his rock n’ roll fashion story but gives it a country spin. Ankle boots and cowboy hats met cropped trousers and slim suits in this collection that looks like an alternative rock band’s venture in country music. Interesting pieces in this collection include what looked like a waxed denim shirt and matching jeans and a leather shirt with fringes along the chest.
Massimo Piombo took his collection to Europe in the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. The designer was quoted saying that he wants to recapture the feeling of traveling to another country to handpick fabric to use for suiting. The collection is well traveled with shirts from Switzerland, and shantung shirts and Indian batik scarves from India.
Sailors were the inspiration for Andrea Incontri’s SS14 collection. The collection, designed for an imaginary lighthouse keeper, had a bevy of raincoats and stripe patterns. The collection was fun and colorful, different yet familiar. The wide striped seersucker blazers in blue stripes and red stripes were notable pieces as well as a hooded parka with an attached cape.
Jil Sander keeps things fresh and new for her minimalist designed collection. The silhouette remains slim, colors remain fresh, and patterns are complex. Sander pushes the envelope with her use of neon orange and peach, and with her pleated Bermuda shorts design that made its rounds in this show. We were particularly fond of her all-over printed pieces and glossy leather jackets.
Les Hommes goes off duty with their tailored collection that is infused with casual elements. Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch mixed leather shirts with tailored trousers and broke away from the rigidity of tailoring with fun floral prints.
The Mogambo, a British safari jacket worn by Clark Gable in a film of the same name, inspired Uman’s SS14 collection. The collection heads to Africa, specifically Nairobi in Kenya, with the use of African tribal art inspired prints throughout the collection. The lightweight cotton and thin linen pieces make this collection fit for a trip on a wild safari.
Brand, Jet Set continues to come into its own especially with this collection. The sporty collection takes cues from the 80s with bright, neon colors and windbreaker jackets and pants.
John Varvatos sticks to rock n’ roll for SS14. The collection paid homage to David Bowie, Jimi Hendrix, the Beatles, and other thin, legendary rockers. Varvatos tinkered with textures and minor detailing like zipper pockets and dangling watch chains.
Neil Barrett looked to the American style in the 1950s for his collection. The pieces took the shape of clothes from the 50s, like his cropped jackets and tailoring, but were much more modern. Barrett used circular and striped patterns that look more fitting for 2050 in this minimal yet eccentric collection.
Donatella Versace ended day one of MFW with a show that continues to perfect the Versace man. The collection shows the man in different scenarios- work, weekend, and nightlife. At work, his suits are sharp with strong shoulders that exhibit power and masculinity, for the weekend, he dons a statement leather jacket that commands attention, and at night he wears bright colors to attract the eyes of soon-to-be admirers in the low light. This season, the many facets of the Versace man look equally confident just as Donatella intended.