Jun 26 2013
So what did you think of Milan Fashion Week? The “week” that actually began on a weekend hot on the heels of Pitti Uomo was a showing of some of the industry’s popular, classic, luxury brands and the brightest new, trendy, experimental brands. The fashion industry’s recent game of musical chairs resulted in several designers and creative directors’ debut seasons unveiling this week in Milan, and they had something to prove all over again.
Of course, new collections go hand-in-hand with new and exciting trends. Menswear moves much slower in comparison to womenswear, but that doesn’t mean that menswear lacks a universal theme or color story every season. What we’ve noticed coming out of Milan are- parkas and capes, activewear, the color orange, explorer style, and geometric patterns much like London’s trend and the FW13 trend.
Menswear in Milan catered to a younger, fashionable segment. Several collections had technical outerwear and performance gear, which makes us wonder if high-end active wear will be the next huge menswear movement after high-end streetwear, the current trend. Jet Set and Dirk Bikkembergs typically caters to the active menswear customer, but Belstaff, Bally, and Gucci followed suit with outdoor friendly outerwear that can withstand the rain and the elements. Ferragamo’s active sportswear SS14 collection seemed displaced, belonging more in London than in Milan, due to the collection’s youthful exuberance.
Parkas were prevalent throughout the week too. Fendi, Andrea Pompilio, and Marni had a few parkas in their collection with the latter’s parka design resembling a cape more than a parka. Outerwear is much lighter for SS14 giving more movement for the wearer and for the piece itself. We’ve noticed that capes were all over Milan’s shows. Bally and Bruno Magli blended capes with anoraks, as seen by the front pocket design, Thom Browne designed a cape with arm holes for Moncler Gamme Bleu, Caruso went with the traditional cape design, and Daks opted for a much smaller version.
Exploration and adventure was a huge theme for SS14. Traveling, jet setting, and men of a particular country being displaced in a vastly different world were the inspirations behind these collections. Corneliani ventured to China, Uman and Missoni went to Kenya and West Africa (respectively), DSquared2 took James Dean to Hawaii, Westwood went to India, vacationing is on the minds of all of the designers. The muted, dusty, neutral color palettes reminded us of archaeologists working on site in a desert and nature A few notable explorer looks came from DSquared2 and Etro, but the best in show has to be Gucci’s floral camouflage skydiver look.
The “geometry” trend from FW13 and London Collections snuck its way onto Milan’s runway. The design was varied with Andrea Pompilio and Corneliani throwing two shapes together for a consistent pattern, while Brioni, Giuliano Fujiwara, Emperio Armani and Neil Barrett went for a larger, exploded pattern much like London and FW13.
And finally, the color story. We’re convinced that designers meet up and decide on a color story together. Do they spin a color wheel and decide from there? Anyways, orange is the hot color in Milan for SS14. The color is vivid and bold for some collections, and washed and natural for others. The twelve collections below speak for themselves, so scroll down and see what we mean.
There’s Milan in a nutshell. MFW has been amazing and memorable, but our minds are already fixated on Paris Fashion Week, which started today. Don’t worry; we’ll have you covered for more recaps and trend reports here. Check back tomorrow for our first recap of PFW.