Jun 25 2013
The follow up to last weekend’s Milan Fashion Week shows has been phenomenal. Powerhouse brands like Gucci, Fendi, and Armani unveiled their much anticipated collections in the middle of debut showings from new designers and creative directors for other notable brands. While we saw more youth friendly collections last weekend, yesterday’s collections seemed more fitting for the mature man in his early to mid 30s. Monday’s collections proved that this is still a man’s game. Look at the selects from the shows below and you’ll definitely agree.
Here is our recap of Monday’s Milan Fashion Week shows.
Diesel Black Gold has a slight workwear and military inspiration this season. Sleek, monochrome outfits walked the runway, but were offset by edgy leather and denim outfits. Asymmetrical zip jackets and blazers in black and white leather and dark denim told the story for this collection.
Armani described his Emperio Armani SS14 collection as urban sportswear. Slim silhouettes and modern details like off-center zipper closures and sporty textures injected youth and energy into a typically classically designed brand. Armani created a “present and future” story in this collection with pieces that fit in with menswear today and pieces that look decades before its time. Sheer details looked digital and the visors worn by the models were a nice touch.
Ian Hylton called his collection that he designed with Fiona Cibani for Ports 1961 “masculine modernity”. The muted collection had geometric patterns which looked the best on a double-breasted blue suit towards the end of the collection and a black lapel tuxedo of the same color and pattern.
Frida Giannini thought of adventuring much like other designers this season. Gucci’s SS14 collection had several forms of floral patterns, technical, active jackets, and parachute backpacks. The moss green, floral meets camouflage outfit complete with backpack was a notable look for making the wearer look like he had just finished skydiving and landed in the jungle.
Etro took cues from Mexico for the SS14 collection. Cowboy shirts and boots and sombreros played a huge role in the collection that was said to be inspired by Zorro, but looked more like it was inspired by Antonio Benderas in Desperado.
Canali played with rich primary colors in between versatile, muted color palettes. The tailoring was very sharp, as expected from Canali, and the looks were very clean and pristine, best suited for an accomplished male that no longer gets his hands dirty.
There’s more fun with masks for Umit Benan. For SS14, the ski masks of the fall are ditched for funny character masks that were modeled after an old man wearing a fez hat. The collection itself was very clean and classic with a few mind-bending, blended patterns. We’re particularly fond of the long shirt looks in this Turkey inspired collection.
Lastly, Fendi explored a world of extreme heat for SS14. Silvia Venturini Fendi laughed about the sand properly placed around the brand’s headquarters. The sand set the stage for the designer’s heat narrative that was evident by outfits in shades of khaki, gold, mustard, and clay.
Monday’s collections were much simpler, but it allowed for onlookers to fully acknowledge and embrace the quality and beauty of the pieces themselves. Color stories were much more tame this time around, which made way for interesting uses of textures and patterns. Ultimately, Monday’s shows were less eye-popping, but looks like an assortment of covetable pieces that will undoubtedly sell out when they hit stores next year. Come back tomorrow for our recap of the final day of Milan Fashion Week.
(All photos via WWD)