Capsule

Pitti: It's All Happening!

January 10, 2012 BY CAPSULESNEWS

Menswear A/W2012 season is finally kicking off today and the market has converged on Pitti Uomo in Florence to see a first glimpse at what our favorite designers have in store for us for the season. We'll be covering all the hoopla, and, of course, the clothes, the people and the goings on as the market travels from Florence to Milan, to NY to Berlin and finally, to Paris. Below are 5 main trends we will be tracking on the trade show circuit.

 

Mastrum Fall/Winter 2011

1. Functional Outdoors: While Americana and heritage still are going strong, theres a new element cropping up- and its all about the outdoors. From mountaineering gear like the ultimate Sierra Designs 60/40 jacket to performance menswear by ArcTeryx Veilance, and technical outerwear with a fashion bent from the likes of Isaora, functional pieces are going to be up in the mix for AW12. The Japanese are taking a luxury interpretation of tech from brands like Rocky Mountain Featherbed and colorful, functional outdoor gear by Manastash. Nigel Cabourn x Eddie Bauer is already being hailed the ultimate outdoorsy collabo of the season. Bags by Japanese labels South2West8 and Master-piece round out the look. (capsule)s brand new section, Above Tree Line, will feature dozens of technical outdoors brands at (capsule) NY and Las Vegas.

 

Marc McNairy x A Continuous Lean

2. Trousers: Woven shirts have been the focus for several seasons as dapper blazer and skinny tie looks replaced the premium denim and sweater look that was the official uniform of the cultural creative for several years. This season its time for some well cut, well constructed dressy-casual trousers in a tactile fabric like soft wool flannel. Notable trousers for AW12 include Shades of Grey by Micah Cohens wool cargos, McNairy s nubby camo and and well tailored wool flat fronts at Norse Projects. just to name a few...

 

Heritage Research

3. Craftsmanship - With all the hand made, lovingly crafted , authentic product out there now, its safe to say that artisanal production, and brands that offer low impact small batch manufacture will be the cornerstones of the menswear market for 2012. Brands and products that offer a high level of craftsmanship and quality will be in demand, as men take more pride in investment pieces, unique product, and locally made and made to order pieces. Cherchbi thrives on its fascination with Britain's design and manufacturing heritage, and reacts against the quality and environmental impact of mass production with a great collection of locally made bags. Heritage Research uses fabrics specially woven in the UK or Japan using traditional methods and looms, and all HR garments are handmade in England, under one roof, by skilled craftsmen and women. Juniper Ridge offers grooming products wildcrafted from the mountains and deserts of the American West. Wheelmen & Company boasts a strong family heritage in cycling, combined with a passion for classic tailoring. Han Kjobenhavn revives Danish design fundamentals and craftsmanship for the companys eyewear and accessories. Individualized Shirts has been making custom made shirts at competitive price points since 1961.

 

Ovadia & Sons Spring/Summer 2012

4. Euro Style: Americana and Japanese interpretations of American vintage have been the driving force in menswear for almost a decade. Now the focus is shifting back towards Europe as designers there make an impact in the US with soft shoulder jackets, sharp cuts, pocket squares, color bursts, and a dash of sprezzatura. We like the look when its mixed with American style elementsa dash of street, a hint of prep or a bit of lumberjack. Were watching Italian labels Piombo, Bogliogli and Isaia, as well as NY based Ovadia and Sons, who offer meticulously tailored suits , trousers, shirtings, neckwear, footwear and furnishings and Ian Velardi for his polished menswear essentials.

Warriors of Radness Fall/Winter 2011

5. Urban Surf: Theres the city, and theres the beach, and then theres urban surf an uncanny mashup of beachwear, and city influences. While logically these two elements wouldnt mesh, the urban surf look has been gathering steam for several seasons. Downtown surf shop Saturdays has been the focal point of the lifestyle in NYC and brands like Cuisse de Grenouille out of Paris offers ties, socks, accessories and beachwear inspired by a world weary surf outlook. Quality Peoples will be showing a collection that melds Mexican street culture, traditional menswear, Hawaiiana, and the nomadic nature of a life lived in search of waves. Reyn Spooner invented the Hawaiian shirt and the brand continues to update the classics for AW12. Warriors of Radness 90s inflected street meets surf aesthetic continues to make waves.