Capsule

London Collections Men Recap, 6/16/13

June 17, 2013 BY WATM

Written by Robin Reetz

The industry is abuzz for this year’s London Collections: Men. With big-name designers like Burberry, Jimmy Choo, and rag & bone showing in London for the first time, the city’s focus is set on menswear.

The shows kicked off on Sunday, 16 June with presentations by some of the most sought-after brands, including Richard Nicoll, Spencer Hart, and Agi & Sam. Here’s the Capsule recap, brought to you by We Are The Market:

 

Lou Dalton opened London Collections: Men for the third time since the brand's launch two years ago. There was lots of matching in Dalton’s show – relaxed, short suits made out of what could’ve been shirting, loose fitting aviation-inspired jumpsuits and lightweight blazers all paired down with oversized shorts and knit tees. This is relaxed aviation for the East London set.

 

Much-anticipated MAN serves as a showcase for upcoming British talent, and this year’s roster included Craig Green, Bobby Abley, and Alan Taylor. Paper crowns, teddy bears, and Disney motifs, ruled the day for Bobby Abley whose oversized fits and sheer patterns stayed modern. Alan Taylor played with tailoring in his close-fitted, schoolboy style suits. An organza blazer paired with tweed shorts was a winning look. The real talking point was Craig Green with his oversized splintered headpieces set atop unfinished layered and paneled looks in knits and wool. Blacks and creams interlaced with tie-dyes in a collection that was not for the faint of heart.

 

Hentsch went west with laid-back looks. Stripes and graphic patterns were accompanied by plenty of long hair and cowboy hats. One t-shirt even declared “Mr. Cool”. We’re digging what appears to be an emerging western trend.

 

The joint collection of Mr Start and Mr Hare was weekends made perfect. Relaxed trousers coupled with polo shirts, linen blazers, and all paired down with colorful trainers and loafers. Chic but wearable, with an eye on commercial appeal.

 

Spencer Hart was cool kid-cowboy, with lightweight, collarless blazers set atop mandarin collar button-ups that fell just below the hip line.Each look was better than the one before and all stayed within a sober color palette of whites and blacks with touches of blue and camel. Check-out our full review of the LCM SS14 Spencer Hart later today.

 

Outerwear stepped-up a notch with Richard Nicoll’s leather jackets and double-breasted overcoats. Silk bomber jackets with graphic prints of actual snakes as well as snake print were used throughout the collection, which had brilliant pops of turquoise and blue.

 

Savile Row’s Gieves & Hawkes showed lightweight summer suits in pale khaki. British traditionalism was right at home with tartan plaids, tweeds, and trenches.

 

Crowd-favorite Agi & Sam perfected color-blocking in one of the best-received shows of LCM so far. Digital printed suits sat comfortably alongside 1960’s-esque sober, almost medicinal looks that were balanced by bright oranges and blues.

 

The phrase ‘techno cowboy’ is being thrown around a lot to describe Topman Design’s showing at LCM, and with good reason – the collection featured embroidered western shirts in silks paired with oversized trousers and dress shoes. Athletic influences were provided by way of jacket ribbings, and foppy hair and reflective sunglasses rounded up the mix to give the collection a little something extra.

 

London favorite Jonathan Saunders gave us all a fresh take on prep by combining fitted trousers and button-ups with bright colorways and dip-dye techniques. The tans and khakis that have been used by so many LCM designers were paired with a bold mix of oversized floral patterns and metallics.

 

London Collections: Men showcases SS14 menswear collections. The collections run June 16-18 throughout London.

 

Robin Reetz is writer based in England. You can find more of her work here on her blog, Second Floor Flat.