London Collections Mens came to a close last night with a solid showing from Nasir Mazhar. London based designers have continued their hot streak for putting out very forward thinking, trendsetting collections. Savile Row will always be top of mind when it comes to England, but the fashion, especially the sportswear, that is coming out of London today will turn menswear on its head. The collections had a recurring theme of psychedelic and futuristic modernity that is proof that the future is now, especially in fashion.
Here's our recap of the final day of London Collections Mens.
Paul Smith stuck to his laurels for his SS14 collection. The presentation displayed unfinished suits from used cloth that was made exclusively by Joseph H. Clissold for collaboration. Smith experimented with new two-tone patterns and speckles of color.
According to Tom Ford, brights are the new black. His London show contained patterns on patterns and bright fabrics, all displayed on two-buttoned sports jackets, pants and shoes. The vibe was uplifting and exciting and the designer definitely was pulling inspiration from the 70's. We saw colors verging on neon but staying just close enough to the edge that they did'nt remind us of a day-glo party. Each piece looked masterfully produced, and while we loved the silk brocade dinner jackets and pants adorned with florals, the soft and bright shoespatterned suede, embroidered velvet and soft white leather might have been our favorite pieces in the whole show.
The Tartan Kilt was the key piece of inspiration that led Pringle of Scotland to the collection they shared at the London Collections yesterday. This not only gave way to a deliciously minimalist feel, but a selection of pieces that included many different visual textures. From jackets and sweaters to full suits and shorts, the pattern was seen either in full or skewed. We loved the white sweater that twisted the traditional pattern as well as the black on black on grey full suit that hosted the pattern in all it's glory.
The Fashion East presentation was a memorable one that housed multiple up-and-coming designers like Joseph Turvey, Craig Green, Tom Ryling, Liam Hodges, and Kit Neale. Every designer turned out a colorful collection that used exploded patterns, and carefully distressed and destroyed clothing.
James Long followed up his Divine FW13 collection with a vibrant and colorful SS14 collection that ambitiously combined multiple colors and played with geometric patterns and shapes. Every look in the collection was styled with shorts and a futuristic pair of sunglasses.
Described by WWD as a "serious fabric nerd" Christopher Raeburn showed off his thread-knowledge (and showed it off masterfully) during his London Collection show. Italian mesh adorned the sleeves of sweatshirts while stretchable fabrics took places on jackets, vests and bombers. Raeburn's collection always have a certain natural outdoorsy theme that incorporates a collection mascot, this time around, you can find a lizard printed on many pieces from SS14.
The Christopher Shannon show was reminiscent of an underground club scene. With bright colors, bold patterns, a lot of hair dye, glitter and PVC (including a full PVC suit). We loved the translucent shirts, and black denim outfits along with the double waisted floral shorts and a certain grey and white patterned suit.
T he Burberry collection was reminiscent of artists and writers; a collection inspired by the alternative intellectual, many of the models could easily have been out walking the streets of London while on a break from writing their latest novel. It was a celebration of the artistic class. Primary colors were a-plenty and were seen on ties, scarves, shoes and bags. The fabrics were entirely cotton, linen, silk and cashmere. We loved the loose scarves and yellow, red and blue accents.
Green and blue hues were prevalent in E. Tautz show that blended tailoring with loose-fitting and slouchy menswear. The contrast did not look out of place but rather like the direction menswear has been heading in for quite some time. Patrick Grant, the brands designer, played with flowing jackets in vibrant colors and longer shirttails much like the FW13 trend. The very fashion-forward collection pushed boundaries especially with a few outerwear pieces that resembled graduation robes.
Matthew Miller blended the art world with anti-establishment with his collection. The muted, moody collection has a post-industrial feel though the collection is very clean and pleasing on the eye.
London Collections Mens ended on a very high note, and has made enthusiasts eager for what's to come from designers showing in Paris, Milan, and New York. Stick with us for more highlights on upcoming fashion weeks ahead.