Written by Robin Reetz
The second day of London Collections: Men showcased another large grouping of presentations and shows throughout London 19 collections were shown on Tuesday alone. Heres a round-up of our favorites:
Always popular, always provocative JW Anderson kicked off the second day of LCM. And for anyone who was still sleeping after Sunday nights parties (and after-parties) was jolted awake by Andersons sculptured, geometric tops and fluid black trousers. Halfway through we were treated to a variety of chiffon floral-printed halter tops yes, on the men which served in stark contrast to the sharply cut leather and knit pieces that ruled the rest of the collection.
The Hunter Gather presentation showed both of the SS14 menswear collection as well as the womenswear debut. Shades of khakis and tans were found throughout the menswear line, and were complimented by white pieces covered in black or red graphic patterns. Hunter Gathers first take on womenswear contained pleated silk skirts and knits in graphic, but familiar, prints of lipsticks and eyes patterns. The collection veered of course with the incorporation of dyed lace layered amongst the pretty patterned pieces and well-made shirtdresses. The brand labeled it as feminine camouflage but it missed the mark. You can read our full review of the Hunter Gather SS14 collection here.
When it comes to British menswear, Margaret Howell is a veteran. The label launched in London in 1972 years before some of her peers at LCM were born - and her experience shines through in every collection. Her latest, shown Monday morning in Marylebone, was chic, wearable, simple. Outwear of all shapes was paired with small neck scarves and wide-brimmed hats, which perfectly accompanied the dressed-up dress shirts and trousers and the dressed-down khaki shorts and casual knitwear. The entire line could be mixed and matched, which gave it the feel of a truly coordinated collection. This was the real mans wardrobe to be worn in a real mans life.
KTZ opened its show with chanting and continued from there to provoke and interest with their multi-layered, multi-part looks. What appears to be layers of fabric at first glance is carefully fitted, constructed, and full of detail. Pattern played a key role some pieces were entirely composed of one pattern while others toyed with solid coloring or mixed prints. Accessories were abundant, with face scarves, hats, flashy silver jewelry, and bags incorporated into each look. This was a show that promised political messages both the implied and the very literal: phrases such as Terror and Poison appeared on some pieces.
Fun and games were had at Sibling with a collection that was an ode to the East London greaser. Cropped denim pants and jackets, plenty of pastels, leopard and star prints, and the knits theyre well known for paired with smiling models were a treat for all. Oh happy days!
All of London is wishing it were beach-bound after Orlebar Browns swimwear presentation. In addition to his signature well-cut swimming trunks a favorite pair featured a poolside scene Brown also showed an impressive array of full trousers, jackets, and knit separates. All of which are versatile enough to look right at home in Monaco or at the neighborhood pool.
Christopher Kane showed a mix of sharply-tailored checkered short suits, akin to the fit of the 1950s, paired with similarly-cut styles covered in circular, Spirograph prints. A standout was a yellow and black short suit, with matching button-up, and a coat cut to mid-thigh. Another favorite was a plain white shirt with button detailing arching over the chest and onto the sleeves. The similarities and differences of these two pieces are a perfect representation of Chris Kanes SS14 collection one as beautiful in color and print as shape and cut.
Perfect, polite summer suits were shown at Richard James - pale pastels in trousers, shorts, and lightweight blazers mixed with shirts and ties of stripes and polka dots. Finishing off the looks were appropriately bright (and oft embroidered) espadrilles that went well with wide-brimmed straw hats and had the crowd ready to jet off to Monaco. These pieces were lightweight, colorful, and begging to be worn summer has arrived.
Menswear It girl, Katie Eary, labeled her SS14 collection Flamingo Masscare and the name soon revealed its origin. Reds and pinks dominated: men focused on constructed red and black leopard one black overcoat was particularly sophisticated - while the ladies gravitated towards flowy, dreamy pinks some even donned cotton candy colored-wigs. This was the skateboarder and his beachside gypsy girlfriend, having their fun without losing site of reality.
Oliver Spencer is always a highlight, and this season he didnt disappoint. Colors were abundant the designer himself claims the yellow suit to be his favorite piece - and ranged from olive greens to yellows to reds and navys. We saw bleached denim and a double-breasted floral suit, but overall this was for the sophisticated man who plays with color and pattern, but gets serious with solids.
C.P. Companysphilosophy is Function and Use, and the SS14 collection shown Monday was just that. This was space-age outerwear done right. A nylon blazer was both fashionable and functional while anoraks were multi-layered and included C.P. Companys signature hood goggles useful in a city like London where the rain (somehow) managed to stay away on this second day of LCM.
Robin Reetz is writer based in England. You can find more of her work here on her blog, Second Floor Flat.