London Collections: Fashion East Review

June 18, 2013 BY WATM

Fashion East is always one of the most anticipated shows of the London fashion week purely because of the element of excitement. The various collections are presented by up and coming designers or, as put by LCM, “the next generation of menswear heavyweights”, and staged as installations rather than following the standard runway formula.

Written by Robin Reetz

Aside from making this a treat for the viewers, it allows the designers to express their vision more completely by creating the atmosphere in which their pieces will live.

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This year’s designers featured Craig Green, whose abstract creations from the Sunday MAN show, were housed in wooden structures. The geometric headpieces were coupled with matching footwear from Purified, and sat in the middle of Mercer Street Studios. This felt closer to an installation rather than a standard presentation set-up and allowed for intimate viewing of the Green’s complex structures.


Marques ’ Almeida’s menswear showed a four-piece capsule collection which focused on relaxed-fit trousers and denim camouflage in oversized shapes. A patchwork suede biker jacket looked sharp, but overall this collection – made exclusively for Opening Ceremony – kept things, in their words, “cool, effortless, and raw”.

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Tom Ryling showed four looks with military undertones. Bleached denim, medicinal white cotton shirts and trousers, and shapeless burlap shirts were topped off with black berets. An olive green jersey was prominent and played counterpart to the red sneakers and socks that accompanied each look.

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A collection garnering lots of attention at Fashion East was designed by Joseph Turvey. Bright, Rothko-esque color blocking was beautifully done in navy, pink, and turquoise. Rose prints mingled throughout, and the Adidas sneakers shown on each model completed the look, giving it a clean, tropical, but sophisticated vibe. A beautiful and well-received collection.

Joseph Turvey will be showcasing his SS14 collection at Capsule Paris.

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Liam Hodges brought the party – literally. His presentation consisted of six looks in what was made out to be a hungover rec room. Paint splattered black denim was coupled with knits. A colorful green patterned jersey and it’s trouser counterpart provided interest, but the secret in this collection really seemed to be the styling.

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One of the most sought-after presentations at Fashion East was Kit Neale. Set in a separate room from the rest, the collection was bright, patterned, and tailored. According to Neale, the collection – know as Whammy! - is about “exploring the age of adolescence and adventure…the message is in exploration of childhood escapades.” The punchy patterns were reminiscent of a childhood bedroom and mixed nicely with neon coloring. A favorite was a graphic jersey paired with a tailored suit patterned in a mini city roadmap scene.

Kit Neale will be showcasing his SS14 collection at Capsule in both Paris and New York.

Robin Reetz is writer based in England. You can find more of her work here on her blog, Second Floor Flat.