Its name means “rotating transmission” so it is quite apt that London-based menswear label Tourne de Transmission has spun into an entirely different aesthetic from its initial one that stressed the marriage/clash of typography and graphics.
Today the brand’s founder and designer Graeme Gaughan is more interested in traditional Eastern fashion and that influence is very apparent in his AW 16 collection that will be on view at Capsule Paris and Capsule New York Men’s starting next Tuesday. He recently shared the following sneak peek….
(c): What is the history of Tourne de Transmission and what are you best known for?
GG: The label started as a creative outlet, a hobby if you like…. I had wound up my last band and needed to find something to occupy the creative side of my brain. The first T-shirts I made were by inspired vintage newspapers and classic typeface, a bit Peter Saville/New Order inspired but motivated by the idea of words and images making statements when put together – ideally and especially when they have no correlation otherwise. That idea has mutated and my fascination with Eastern clothing culture took over as a main point of focus. But it is still ingrained in the DNA of the label in terms of actual position in the industry and retail landscape. Product-wise, while we were known for prints, we are becoming known much more for our Eastern inspired silhouettes and fabrics, which we mix with Western sports shapes and hand-finished patchwork.
(c): What are some of the key items in your AW 16 collection?
GG: Our new Ikkat fabric is already causing a bit of a stir…. This comes in a long kimono shape and other separates that we feel will do well with buyers. There are a lot of new colors which we are not known for which I feel will surprise a lot of people: lots of camel, mustards and army green. Our Plan B pant, which is proving a strong seller in black, is back in washed-out royal blues this season. We have continued our patchwork denim elements across extra long overcoats and we have taken our overdying techniques into overdrive with patchwork plaids which have been dyed into a soft black where the plaids are just visible.
(c): What is your overall inspiration for AW 16?
GG: This season is fueled by the idea of a lone figure who has crossed continents; a searcher, wanderer and a peaceful warrior, picking up clothing from different cultures – and wearing it all at once. The book Tibetan Style by Yann Romain has especially become a bit of a bible to me; Tibet is a place I find hugely inspirational. The clothing habits of its people and the way they put together color is like nowhere else.
(c): Why should buyers come see the collection this season?
GG: I don’t tend to look at the bigger picture as far as trends go… I like to find something I can connect with in obscure parts of the world. Last season this was in the mountains and rainforests of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in Colombia and the Kogi tribe. This season is the Himalayas and windswept Tibetan plains. I am hugely inspired by Eastern clothing cultures, not trends. It’s a very important definition. This is then reinterpreted into a contemporary modern menswear look.