From Florence to Milan, menswear shows head to their second destination in Italy, Milan, for fashion’s major players. Here’s our recap of the weekend’s must-see shows.
All photos from WWD and Style.com
Stefano Pilati looked to space and the future for the MFW kickoff AW14 collection of Ermenegildo Zegna. Pilati is one to wear oversized coats, and the collections under his tenure have reflected his style. In this collection, oversized coats are quilted and down including the parkas in the collection and in a grey/blue color palette that looks futuristic altogether.
Jil Sander may have parted ways with her eponymous label yet again, but her team produced a solid, sellable collection in her same vein. The varied textures kept the collection lively like leather coats, felt pants, and glossy raincoats and anoraks that were in Sander’s signature cut.
It looks like Neil Barrett can do no wrong. Barrett has been perfecting his sporty, tailored aesthetic for years and this collection looks like he is having some fun. From two textured and gradient outerwear, to large graphics that span the entire piece, AW14 will undoubtedly be talked about until June.
Versace, Versace, Versace – the AW14 collection is all rodeo right down to the bandanas, paisley prints, and ripped jeans. Donatella was quoted saying that she wanted the collection to be “a celebration of individuality, and the freedom to be whoever you want to be in the face of all the oppression in the world right now.” And what’s more free than a cowboy horseback riding through the wild west? She’s on to something here, and though some may smirk at the absurdity of some looks, you can’t doubt that the collection is still on point with previous great collections.
Bottega Veneta is very cozy for AW14. Tomas Maier may be inspired by the New York fashion scene that wants joggers that can double as trousers with the right styling. Sweaters and outerwear are loose fitting and the leather accessories were very soft taking the rigidity out of luxury.
Salvatore Ferragamo, on the other hand, remained formal with their luxe aesthetic. Massimiliano Giornetti designed a vast selection of astonishing outerwear like Aztec blanket inspired coats to soft, cropped leather jackets that complimented the slim trousers with tapered ankles.
Calvin Klein went from sunsets and the beach for SS14 to militant for AW14. Italo Zucchelli put quilted jackets, parkas, and bomber jackets in neutral moss green, camel, and navy tones tones, and for an added touch, gave a nod to the fragrance names from the past - Obsession, Escape and Eternity – by putting them on sweatshirts.
Vivienne Westwood had an interesting collection that would appear “all over the place” unless you saw the outfits in succession. Alone, each outfit is a streetwise statement, but together it is concise story with metallic tracksuits and padded bomber jackets. The collection is over the top with contemporary designs.
Angela Missoni, like Bottega, went cozy for AW14 and it seems fitting for Missoni that was built on soft, cozy, patterned knitwear. She referenced what she calls, “wayfaring surfers riding their tidal wave around the world” which is evident in the casual and relaxed outfits.
AW14 menswear was mixed with women’s pre-fall 14 looks that were complimentary in design and color. The mens collection is almost 100% tailoring and is much more colorful than you would expect for an Autumn collection and much more lightweight. Lightweight wool sweaters and topcoats and loose trousers found their place in the collection possibly as a carryover from SS14.
Finally, Moncler Gamme Bleu closed the weekend with nine women’s looks before giving us some menswear. The collection piggybacks off of his SS14 collection that was inspired by cricket players with red, white, and blue argyle patterns and tattersall patterns that are consistent in all of Browne’s collections and collaborations. The collection is less about newness and more about perfecting since this is Browne’s first attempt at womenswear for the Gamme Bleu collection.
The heavy-hitters came out swinging this weekend and really changed the tone that was set in London. Still, Gucci, Etro, Armani, Marc Jacobs, and DSquared2 will show this week, and are expected to be stellar shows. The spotlight is on Milan and it’s looking great so far. Keep it locked with us for recaps of MFW and more fashion weeks to come.