LC:M certainly set the tone for Fashion Week. Though we’re on to Florence for Pitti and then Milan for Fashion Week, we can’t leave London on a cliffhanger. Here’s our recap of the final day of London Collections: Men.
Patrick Grant flexed his tailoring muscles for the E. Tautz AW14 collection that was inspired by the early Gregorian period that Grant described as a time “when men were still beautifully and very flamboyantly dressed.” The collection reflected a modern dandy with patterned wool coats over suits with a matched pattern and despite the nod to olden times.
Massimo Nicosia took his knitwear game with Pringle of Scotland to another level, outdoing himself for yet another season. The patterns and details were overshadowed by the fabrics and textures he used throughout the collection, most notably his part-knitted duvet jacket, pullover made from down, high-tech jersey and wool cashmere, and Scottish cashmere fisherman sweaters.
Tom Ford’s AW14 presentation showcased a muted collection that was much darker and much sportier than past collections. Ford took a less is more approach opting for luxe fabrics and details to command attention as opposed to wild patterns and non traditional color ways on his tailoring.
Sid Bryan, Suzette McCreery, and Joe Bates, the trio behind Sibling, were inspired by John Bulmer’s book, The Potteries and the Black Country in England’s Midlands, a 1960s book of photography documenting Manchester. Bryan said, ”we found a picture of the inside of a gypsy caravan that was covered in crochet squares,” which became a recurring theme throughout the collection as well as the fair isle knits, red, white and blue color story, and their now signature fishnet knits.
Oliver Spencer showed out with smart collection that had relaxed tailoring throughout the show and fun colors to add life to the muted collection.
Katie Eary put her spin on punk in an exciting bright red and orange collection that could be seen as nightmarish interpretation of Hell. Vinyl pants with zipper details, orange and black leopard print patterns and models with wearing Mickey Mouse masks and horned hair styles exemplified circles of a fashionable Hades.
Christopher Bailey delivers once again for the AW14 Burberry Prorsum collection inspired by 20th century British painters. Bailey was inspired specifically by Lucian Freud, Ben Nicholson, Christopher Wood and Duncan Grant who each paint landscapes and portraits. The collection had a bevy of tapestry patterns, long printed silk and wool scarves and outfits were styled to show every single detail of an outfit.
Marjan Pejoski, the man behind one of the most unique menswear lines today, KTZ, left last season’s “sand ninja” in the desert for somewhat religious collection that was inspired by Holiness, Hinduism, the Himalayas and Hockey. Pejoski described his collection as “fifties explorers in the mountains, searching for enlightenment and finding Shangri-La,” and the outcome was mind bending symbols and patterns styled in all white and all black.
Baartsmans and Siegel, who met working with Viktor & Rolf, had a collection focused on outerwear. The duo sought to channel indulgence in their collection of hybrid formal and sportswear. A happy medium was met through tailoring and technical coats.
A stellar LC:M has us excited for AW14. We can’t crown London as the best in menswear without heading to Italy for Pitti and Milan Fashion Week. Stick with us for more recaps of fashion week and the latest collections.