Standout show Craig Green, SS17 (Dazed Digital)
A back-catalogue of references, Brexit stances and out-right Britishness. LC:M proved its position as a progressive platform for exciting talent. Here are three things you need to know.
Credits (L-R):| Casely-Hayford women’s, SS17 (Dazed Digital) ; Agi & Sam, SS17 (Vogue); Astrid Anderson, SS17 (Vogue)
One would be forgiven for feeling as if we had skipped forward three months to the womenswear shows as day 1 of LC:M was besieged with women taking to the catwalks: did the male models not get the memo? An event not typically associated with women, this season saw a handful of designers - Astrid Anderson and Casely-Hayford included - chosing LC:M to extend their brand’s offer with a foray into the unknown - womenswear. Still not sold on the idea of gender-neutral menswear? Well look no further than Agi & Sam’s subverted riff on traditional gender roles. One thing is clear: the future of menswear is officially to be determined, and LC:M as we know it for that matter. Did we mention the event is set to change its name next season to London Fashion Week Men’s as it becomes increasingly customer facing?
2. An everyday uniform
Credits L-R: Oliver Spencer, SS17 (Vogue)'; Margaret Howell, SS17 (10 Magazine) ; Craig Green, SS17 (Vogue)
As fashion’s elite offered up a melting-pot of styles on the streets, a similar picture emerged inside the shows as designers served up a host of strong looks; 90s at Anderson and Miller, 80s at E. Tautz, and a lesson in 50s resortwear at Oliver Spencer. But while no particular trend led the charge, there was an undercurrent that quickly became apparent: the evolution of designers’ focus on redefining classic items with a modern edge - an ‘everyday uniform’. These are clothes for modern men that maintain a casual ease and true functionality as items like the workwear suit and trench come through. Volume felt more accessible than previous seasons and new layering ideas had a thrown-together look that will appeal to the customer’s personal preference. These are items to be lived in, whether inner city or suburbia, anchored by understated references to a new refined workwear and sportswear aesthetic as tailoring and casualwear combine.
3. Rebellious youth
As Topman opened LC:M with its collection of lost boys from the bygone eras of the British seaside, the Queen kicked off her official 90th Birthday celebrations. And if the fascination with British subcultures is good enough for Alessandro Michele’s latest Resort collection at Gucci, it’s certainly good enough for us! But scratch the surface and you’ll find the real message – one that has already been building on the streets - and one that Vevers put an American spin on for Coach’s closing show. This is the uprising of the rebellious youth in fashion – the rebel boys (and girls) showing us a new way of self-expression with a free-spirited attitude, and it’s set to endure (unsurprising given the current political climate). So, whether it’s Topman’s teddy boys, Miller’s Negasonic Teenage Warheads or Miharayasuhiro and Coach’s American bad boys, expect a melting pot of gritty, sub-culture references from the 50s through to early 2000s. While this is a no brainer for young, fashion-savvy retailers, expect to see it take hold for the contemporary customer too as classic items are reworked in fresh hybrid styles and a whole host of checks come into play.
Credits: 1. Matthew Miller, SS17 (10 Magazine) 2. Coach 1941, SS17 (10 Magazine) 3. Topman Design, SS17 (10 Magazine)
Next stop, Milan!